भाग १: रंगभरी एकादशी
Rangbhari Ekadashi is one of the most important festivals of Kashi. As the word “Rangbhari” says, “filled with colours.” According to the mythology, after the marriage of Shiv and Parvati, and Lord Shiv brought his bride to his beloved city Kashi. Rangbhari Ekadashi marks the day when Maa Parvati first entered the city as the bride of Shiv.
It is believed that before this day Shiv lived in Kashi as an ascetic, detached from worldly life. But after marriage he returned as a householder, bringing Maa Parvati with him. The city celebrates this moment with colours and joy, welcoming Maa Parvati. Since it was the first time Maa Parvati came to Kashi, all the Gods showered petals and colours from heaven on the newly married couple.
A day before Ekadashi Shiv arrives at the house of the Mahant of Shri Kashi Vishwanath temple, on Rangbhari Ekadashi, Kashi comes alive with a vibrant procession is taken out, devotees, full of energy and devotion, dance through the lanes, playing with colours and celebrating with unrestrained joy. The procession begins at the Mahant’s residence in Tedhi Neem and slowly makes its way to the Kashi Vishwanath temple. At its heart, carried with reverence, are the silver idols of Shiv and Parvati, as the city welcomes them in celebration. At the Kashi Vishwanath temple, devotees offer gulal to the Shivling and to the idols of Shiv and Parvati. (बाबा विश्वनाथ का विशेष श्रृंगार होता है और उनको दूल्हे के रूप में सजाते हैं। इसके बाद बाबा विश्वनाथ जी के साथ माता गौरा का गौना कराया जाता है)| The entire temple complex packed with devotees, turns vibrant with colours, chants of “Om Namah Parvati Pataye Har Har Mahadev”, and the sound of drums. The narrow lanes of Kashi, which usually carry the quiet rhythm of everyday devotion, suddenly become filled with laughter, colours and celebration.
As the next day unfolds, Shiv visits Masaan to celebrate holi with his Ganas, bhutas, and spirits that live at the cremation ground which is called Bhasm Holi, Rangbhari Ekadashi also marks the beginning of the six days of Holi celebrations in Kashi. For the people of Kashi, it is not just a festival. It is not only the beginning of Holi. It is the reminder that even the most detached god once returned home with his bride.
भाग २: भस्म होली या मसान होली
In Kashi the celebration begins in the cremation grounds of Manikarnika Ghat. Manikarnika Ghat, where the eternal fire never rests & neither do the arrivals, through searing heat, withering rain, or raging wind, the pyres continue without interruption, the fires of cremation are said to have burned since time immemorial as if time itself flows here only in the rhythm of endings. It is here that the departing soul is believed to receive the Tarak Mantra from Shiv himself, guiding it toward liberation.
The mythology of Kashi meets one of its most unusual festivals, Masaan Holi or Bhasm Holi. The word Masaan means cremation ground and Bhasm means ash, hence the name, holi played with ash on the cremation ground/ghat. According to the folklores of Kashi, Lord Shiv, who is also known as the Lord of the cremation grounds, joins his ganas- bhutas, pretas, pishachas, vetalas, yakshas, nagas, and all the strange attendants of his celestial host in celebration and play holi with them. In this gathering there are no boundaries between the divine and the outcast. Shiv, who accepts all forms of existence, celebrates with his ganas as equals. In Kashi, this image of Shiv playing Holi reminds devotees that the festival belongs not only to the living, but to every being that walks under his gaze. Aghoris and sadhus & devotees gather at the ghats, enact as Shiv Parvati and the ganas, and smear the sacred ash of funeral pyres on themselves and play holi with the ash instead of colours and gulal, dancing and chanting the name of Mahadev.
The chants of “Har Har Mahadev” echo through the smoke and the fire of the ghats. It is not just a festival of colour, but of ash, devotion and acceptance to celebrate both living and the dead.
